Tuesday, January 10, 2012

Mascara Mayhem

An ode to Eyelashes:

To the outside world, I'm known as a makeup artist who "probably wear false lashes". To my colleagues, I'm known as the girl who "you can't believe isn't" wearing false lashes. But I wasn't blessed with more lashes than the average gal. I just know how to rock them out. And since everyone asks me how to get their lashes to look big on a daily basis, I thought I'd give a few tips to help all my ladies achieve amazing lashes without the use of "falsies"!
(Also, a full disclosure: I use Latisse regularly and have seen a remarkable improvement in the overall length of these bad boys. But technique and product go a LONG way).

First, let's start by addressing mascaras. What do we want in a product? Length? Volume? Well, forget what you've seen in ads because I guarantee you that unless that model was made up by yours truly, she's wearing fake eyelashes. So how do we achieve that look when the companies that promise it don't even try to skip the lash extensions?

Step 1: Picking your product. Forget all those fiber mascaras. Nothing says clumpy like a formula that already has bits and pieces floating around in it. Avoid fiber and go for a lengthening or volumizing product first. I like the following brands for their formula as well as their wands:

  • Clinique Lash Doubling: Still my go-to favorite after almost a decade. This formula sports the perfect wand and can go from light lashes to full weight without a single clump. Incredibly build-able and shiny, this texture leaves lashes supple and soft. Also, though not waterproof, I've rarely had it smudge.  

  • YSL Faux Cils: Although this one can occasionally smudge a tad in wet weather, under normal circumstances it's ability to lengthen is unparalleled. What Clinique does for overall volume, YSL does for spidery, lengths.

Step 2: Curl your eyelashes first. I stand by my decade long favorite, which I have yet to find a better substitute for. Shu Uemura is still the Cadillac of the eyelash curling world. Like American Express, I never leave home without it.

Step 3: Apply a single coat of mascara, using the wand's tip, (not side) in an up and down motion rather than side to side. This will allow you to elongate each, individual eyelash without creating clumps
 Step 4: Re-curl your lashes, moving the curler as close to the base of the lid as possible. Hold for 5-10 seconds each.
Step 5: Brush and separate out lashes with a comb or wand and add one last coat to tips only.
Step 6: Line in between lashes with a black or brown pencil to fill in and add thickness to the overall lash base. There are several I like, but an easy starter pencil is MAC's Graphblack, which features an automatic liner that's rounded and keeps you from poking yourself in the cornea. Run the pencil under your lid and in between the lash hairs. (See below).
 Step 7: Lightly define lower lashes, this time using the side to side motion, followed by a pull down with the wand's tip only.

Step 8: If going out in rain or humidity, apply a single, light coat of waterproof over the upper lash, very lightly. I like L'Oreal Voluminous in Carbon Black.
And that's it. From the horses' mouth, this is the best way that I've found to get GAGA lashes without the plastic!

With Love,

Noa B

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